Yunnan is often referred to as one of China’s agricultural baskets, producing everything from flowers and coffee to tea and olive oil. Yet few ingredients are as closely associated with the province as its yeshengjun, or wild mushrooms. From July to September each year, seasonal rains transform the province’s mountains and forests into one of the world’s richest mushroom habitats, drawing foragers into the hills and filling wholesale markets with freshly harvested fungi destined for restaurants...