In a dessert landscape dominated by gelato chains, hotel pastry teams and investor-backed dessert bars, Ernest Fung has some hefty competition. Yet Fun Kee Scoops, Fung’s artisan, small-batch ice cream brand, has become a darling of Hong Kong’s independent food scene. The operation specialises in handcrafted premium French-custard-style ice cream – a rich, egg-yolk-laden style that prioritises full-fat dairy and real sugar – and also offers baked goods such as cookies and granola. Fung does not...