Durian ice cream with caviar. On paper, it feels gauche, an unnecessarily luxurious way to elevate an otherwise straightforward and common dessert. Take a bite, though, and the caviar coaxes out the savoury elements of the durian, balanced by the fruit’s natural sweetness and highlighted by the roe’s clean salinity, all with a pleasing textural contrast. Suddenly, a faintly ridiculous dessert makes perfect sense. This playful juxtaposition has been a signature of Whey, Sheung Wan’s celebrated...