The brass ring on the door is the first clue that something has changed. No automatic sensor. No discreet sliding mechanism. Just a solid ring set into a metal facade, demanding that you press and wait for the door to be opened to let you in. It is a gesture that announces, before a single course lands, that this is dining as ritual. For chef-proprietor Vicky Lau, whose Tate Dining Room has embarked on its third major incarnation in Sheung Wan, this relocation is less a change of address than a...