Tucked away on a quiet street in Southbank, Melbourne, is yet another Cantonese restaurant. But this time, there are no lazy Susans, no clamorous dim sum trolleys and none of the sprawling banquet halls you would expect in Hong Kong-style spots. Instead, just 10 seats line an elegant counter where diners watch and listen to two chefs sharing stories of a home far away, flavours from which define the 10-course tasting menu. This is Dom, the personal project of Dominic Li, the founder of the now...