I don’t know who needs to hear this, but sometimes it is OK to be ordinary. I am talking about restaurants that make great food and create a comfortable environment for its diners, but have neither the ambition nor the so-called skill to gain a spot on the multiple award lists around the world, or to – God forbid – land itself in a well-meaning reel of the influencer du jour. Or maybe put it this way: I am bored with everything being touted as the next viral moment, the must-try, the “run, don’t...