When the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau first launched its Green Star for sustainability in 2021, Amber at Mandarin Oriental The Landmark was a glaring omission. The fine-dining restaurant had two Michelin stars at that point and, over the previous 16 years, had become one of the leading lights for sustainability in Hong Kong. “We got so many messages … asking why Amber didn’t get the Green Star. I could only reply, ‘Well, I have no idea,’” says Richard Ekkebus, the hotel’s culinary...